We made it! Port Stanley, Falkland Islands. You may be aware, but these islands off the east side of the southern coast of South America are a part of the United Kingdom. British is spoken here, or the “King’s English” as they say, and the currency is the British pound. But the most important language spoken here is Penguin – and they have a lot to say!
Our excursion was scheduled for 1:30, with a need to tender ashore about 12:30. Sunday morning at 9:00 there was a church service, always led by volunteers – in this case a retired Presbyterian minister. We opted for a late breakfast afterwards, then left about 11:00 to go ashore a little early and see some of the town.
We hoped the weather would hold long enough to make it to Bluff Cove for our visit with the Gentoo and King Penguins. In a briefing for passengers, the Captain instructed everyone to listen for the ship’s horn while ashore. If it began to blow over and over, we were to return immediately to the ship. Having the ship get stuck in port was not what anyone wanted, but far worse would be getting left in port because you didn’t go back when told!! We were glad we left early because the tender took six attempts to tie up at the town dock, as the wind and waves kept pushing us out.
Walking around turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated as the winds were howling and it started to rain. We did make it along the waterfront to the local tourist office, past the Jubilee Building, flats (apartments) built in a British style in honor of the Queen’s Golden Jubilee, to the local Anglican church built in the mid 1800’s, and past the upright jawbone of two sperm whales which demonstrate a “great fish” would have had no trouble at all swallowing Jonah. Our last stop was the local supermarket with a clothing shop and cafe attached, where we drank the most delicious hot chocolate ever (I learned it was Cadbury).
At 1:15 we arrived at our meeting point by the pier, were given a pink sticker assigning us to our 15 passenger van, and loaded up with our driver and guide, Frank, for a Penguin party!
Thirty minutes later we arrived at Bluff Cove, disembarked our vans, were given instructions such as keeping our voices low, how close we could get (pretty close!), etc., and walked through a solution designed to disinfect our shoes. The Penguins did not care whether the winds blew or rains fell – and at that point we were so happy to see them – neither did we.
How exciting to walk across the hillside and see the Penguins there in their natural habitat. They stood in groups, Gentoos together and Kings together, but seemed to share the same areas across the rocks to and from the beach.
The Kings were gorgeous and regal with their brilliant orange, perfect lines, and a late evening sunset on each breast. Many had baby chicks tucked under their fur in a fold in front of them. They spent most of their time standing in place, grooming, seeing to their chicks and sometimes squawking loudly – and I do mean loudly. No one told THEM to keep their voices down! Having not learned the language I have no idea what the fuss was about, but they ensured all Penguins knew! The Kings are the second largest Penguin species (only Emperors are larger, think “March of the Penguins” movie”), about 3 feet tall and weighing in at over 30 pounds.
The adult Gentoos have peach colored feet, white stripes along the edge of their flippers, and white feathers above and to the rear of their eyes that look like costume eyelashes done with the strokes of a master make-up artist. And they were hilarious. I’m sure they don’t see the humor as they just do “Penguin stuff”, but we humans tend to project human characteristics onto God’s creatures, especially when they stand upright and “act like we do”. Several times the younger ones seemed to be playing a game of chase with two birds chasing a third, weaving in and out among the adults, up and down the rocks with all three squawking and calling. Just when you thought it may be getting serious, the chased would turn and become one of the chasers and off they’d go again. The Gentoos are the third largest Penguin, about 2.5 feet tall and average only about 11 pounds. They are the world’s fastest underwater birds, reaching speeds of up to 22 mph. Maybe those lovely eyelash feathers are actually racing stripes!
An adult…
And a chick…
They all go to the sea for food, and when we were there the tide was out, so there was a lot of beach. Some would go out, and there were always several walking – waddling – back to the group. Suddenly, you would see a lone Penguin break from the group and start running toward those returning from the sea. Had they been separated for a long time? Were they enthusiastic newlyweds who couldn’t wait to be back together? The kids on their own for the first time and out past curfew? “I thought you’d never get here with lunch!”? It was evident that the runner was looking for a specific individual or group of Penguins, as it would run past several, sometimes pause for a quick word or peck, then continue until it reached the one(s) it sought. So cool!
We stayed and watched as long as we could stand the wind and cold, then walked about 300 yards to the Sea Cabbage Cafe, where there was a warm stove, hot tea, cocoa, or coffee, and fresh baked goods hand-made by Hettie who ran the Gift Shop. I asked if she would come and bake for the ship – hers were so delicious!!
After getting warm I walked down to the beach and watched a few of the Penguins swim in and out. They can go quickly with seemingly no effort from running to sliding forward on their bellies to back up and running, are so very agile – and fast – in the water. Such amazing creatures!! And there they are – right there! Incredible!!
It finally came time to leave. Frank sprayed the bottoms of our shoes as we entered the van and drove us back to the tender pier. The weather continued to worsen, and the tender ride back to the ship took nearly 30 minutes instead of the usual 20. Genny and I sat by a door which would not fully close. About halfway back it got really rough, and wave after wave washed over and through the door, wetting our jackets and clothes. A nice man on the opposite bench tried to close the door but couldn’t, so we pulled up our hoods, accepted the sympathy of those around us – and asked the ship for a one-time free laundry to wash out the salt water, which they graciously provided.
What an incredible, glorious day!! Once we are home and I can download the pictures from the other camera, I hope to have a page of better Penguin pictures and upload some video. Watching them walk and run with flippers outstretched or flapping behind them is just pure joy!! For now, I hope you can enjoy these few, and praise God along with us for the beauty and splendor and absolute awesomeness of these fantastic creatures.