Thursday morning was another bright and beautiful day, morning weather in the high 50’s rising to a cool in the shade/warm in the sun 72. We had decided to catch some things today that we missed on our last trip and thought the best way to get us started would be to use the Hop On Hop Off Bus similar to the one we used in Malaga. This time we opted for one that gave us access to three different bus lines.
We walked about three blocks to Stop #9 of 12, easily found the buses – pretty obvious when there are multiple double deckers sitting on narrow streets, showed our prepaid voucher, got tickets and boarded. Complimentary earbuds were provided and we plugged in to hear commentary as we rode past Stop#12 around to Stop #4 at the Circus Maximus, one of the largest sporting arenas ever built.
Getting off the bus at about the middle (as opposed to either end), we walked over to look down at the long, oval track originally built in the 6th century BC. The Circus Maximus was used for chariot racing, wild animal hunting games, gladiator fights, the Roman Games honoring the god Jupiter, and other athletic and military events. Over 1800 feet long and nearly 700 feet wide with seating on three sides, it could hold 250,000 spectators. I read that the original track is still another 18 feet deep, which put us at about the top level of seats. It wasn’t too hard to imagine what it would be like to be seated in the stadium watching a military processional with pounding drums and the marching feet of Legions of Roman soldiers, or to hear the roar of 250,000 people caught up in bloodlust of fights to the death.
Leaving the Circus Maximus we turned left to walk northwest toward the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church and the large oval disc that stands against the outside wall known as “The Mouth of Truth”. If you watched the Gregory Peck/Audrey Hepburn movie, Roman Holiday, you already know the story. Medieval legend has it that any liar who places their hand in its mouth will have it bitten off – or if you tell a lie while your hand is in there, the same will happen to you!
Across from the church is the round Temple of Hercules. Built more than 2000 years ago of Greek marble, it is said to be the resting place of Hercules after his tenth labor. You remember your Greek and Roman mythology, right?
We walked west from the church toward the Tiber River and followed its course along a tree covered walk toward the boat shaped Tiber Island.
Eventually we reached the Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge in Rome, built in 62 BC. It is a walking bridge that crosses over the Tiber to the island.
The river splits as it passes to both sides of the island. In early Rome, larger merchant vessels could not pass through the narrows, so the island became a natural place for doing business. On the small island there are some businesses and restaurants, and what was a pagan temple that later became a church. A hospital, built in 1584 still operates there.
During World War II after Nazis rounded up 1200 Jews from the Jewish ghetto just across the bridge (only 15 of whom survived the camps), a Dr. Giovanni Borromeo invented a deadly, highly contagious disease that he named “K Syndrome” in order to keep Nazis from discovering the Jews hidden there in the wards. Hurray for Dr. Borromeo!
Walking toward the Jewish ghetto, we began to look for a place to have lunch. We found a likely spot outside and ordered a fried artichoke, a chicken shawarma dish with salad and fries, and pita bread. The fried artichoke is a Roman specialty in the spring when artichokes are in season. We each love grilled artichokes and Genny really likes them boiled, so we tried the fried special. Uhm, we’ll stick with grilled or boiled. The chicken shawarma? It – was – delicious.
After lunch we rambled north through the ghetto, stopping at an antique shop and a bakery for pastries. Our next goal was the Largo di Torre Argentina, the site of the assassination of Julius Caesar.
You may remember that Caesar was stabbed 23 times by a group of Roman Senators on March 15, 44 BC, the Ides of March (appearance of the full moon), during a meeting of the Senate. The area is now a protected archeological dig that is slated to be opened to the public in the future.
In addition to historical fame, this area is one of the largest cat sanctuaries in Rome. You can read lots about cats and Rome, but suffice it to say that they and other animals are protected. I read that, by law, if there are five or more cats living in a particular location they cannot be relocated (I also read that number was two.)
In many cases one or more volunteers look after them called a “gattara” (cat lady) and they get help from the government and local vets. There are over 200 being cared for at the Cat Sanctuary at Largo di Torre Argentina and they are up for adoption both locally and abroad. Want one?
Our last planned stop for the day was at the Pantheon. We walked north until we arrived, took one look at the line – and drew the line at waiting. Deciding to return early one morning, we grabbed a cab at the taxi stand and rode back to the hotel for rest and dinner.
So much for our scaled back easy schedule. But we are having a grand time, are grateful for the amazing weather, and love rambling through the ancient neighborhoods.
Thanks again for going with us. More to come! Love to all.